The right preparation can make or break your drywall project. Properly measuring and planning a layout minimizes waste and simplifies the finishing process.
To begin, hoist a drywall sheet on a lift or have someone help you position it tight against the wall. Use a utility knife to score the front side of the drywall, then snap it along the line. Contact Drywall Installation Las Vegas now!
Installing drywall is when your home or commercial building looks less like a construction site and more like a livable space. Drywall is a cost-effective material that makes transitioning from framing, plumbing, wiring, and insulation to finished walls a simple process. It is also one of the easiest materials to handle, but improper installation can lead to serious problems. Learning the basics of hanging drywall will help your project go more smoothly and prevent costly mistakes.
The most important step in drywall installation is measuring the space where you are planning to place a wall. This will ensure that the drywall you purchase is the correct length for your space, and it will also make the installation process faster. When measuring the length of your wall, be sure to measure at a few different points along the room. This will help you determine if your wall is square or out of plumb, and it will help you figure out how much drywall you will need to buy.
Once you have your measurements, it is time to cut the drywall. To do this, place the drywall white side down and use a utility knife to score the sheet along your line of measurement. Press firmly, but not hard enough to completely cut through the gypsum core. Once you have scored the drywall, pull off the paper and trim the edge of the sheet with a blade.
When cutting drywall for a ceiling, be sure to mark where any electrical outlets or other fixtures will go. This will help avoid the need to cut around them later. Also, make sure the drywall is the proper thickness for your space. Most homes and offices are set up for 1/2-inch drywall, although three-eighths-inch and 1/4-inch drywall are available as well.
Once you have cut the drywall to size, it is time to put it up. First, screw the drywall into the studs and joists. If you are not using a nail gun, be sure to drive the screws in at an angle to help keep them from stripping the drywall or hitting electrical wires underneath.
Cut
Working with drywall does not require much finesse, but it is heavy work. If you’re in reasonable physical condition, it is possible to hang a room or two by yourself. It’s also less expensive than hiring a pro, and you can take pride in your accomplishments. However, a poorly hung wall can create fissures and cracks that are expensive and inconvenient to repair.
Measure the length of a wall or ceiling before cutting the first sheet. Record these dimensions for future reference and make a diagram of the area for easier installation. Depending on the thickness of your drywall, choose a blade that’s appropriate for the job. For example, a hand saw is suitable for smaller cuts, while a power saw is needed to cut a longer sheet.
Once you’ve measured the wall, lay a piece of drywall white side up on top of it and use a square to draw your marks for cutting. Then, using a utility knife, score the drywall along your line. Don’t press too hard, but be firm enough to cut the drywall surface at the point where you marked it. After scoring, turn the sheet over and trim off any extra material with a utility knife.
Before you begin hanging drywall, install a header for a new window or door opening. A header is a 2×4 frame that sits at the bottom of an opening, where it supports a header plate installed on either side of the opening. Install a sill plate in the same manner as a header.
After you’ve cut and trimmed each sheet, fasten it to the framing with a screw gun. Begin in the middle of the sheet and work toward the outside edges, driving a screw into each stud every 16 inches. As you work, check for gaps and splices between pieces of drywall. Fill any holes with drywall compound before they cause problems.
When you reach the end of a sheet, measure from the center of the farthest joist and mark the new dimension on its edge with a square. This will help you determine how long to cut the next sheet to fit the space. Don’t place any splices or gaps over door and window openings, as this will cause the drywall to crack.
Hang
If you have the right equipment and a bit of confidence, hanging your own walls is an easy DIY project. But it’s also important to follow these tips to make your drywall installation look like the professionals did it. This ensures your project looks its best and prevents the costly mistakes that can ruin your new wallboard.
Before you hang your first sheet, check that the framing is flat from one joist or stud to the other. Any crooked or uneven areas can cause the drywall to bow, creating bulges or lumps. Use a level and a straight edge to ensure the ceiling or wall is flat, then shim or smooth any components that aren’t perpendicular.
Next, position a new drywall panel in a wall or ceiling opening, making sure one end butts up against the ceiling and the other side fits snugly against the abutting wall. Secure it to the studs or joists with a line of evenly-spaced screws along the top plate.
If you’re putting in electrical outlets at this stage, make sure they’re set flush with the drywall. Otherwise, they might get punctured by your screw or nail heads later on.
After the screws are in place, fold a strip of paper tape over the corners of each joint. Press the tape into the mud, then smooth it with your cleaned taping knife.
Don’t rush to finish your project. Let the mud dry for at least 24 hours before you begin painting. It may take longer if your space is particularly humid or if you’re working with a large room.
For any drywall projects that require cutting or drilling, be sure to wear safety glasses and use the correct protective gear. Also, remember that if you’re going to be installing electrical or plumbing fixtures, they should be installed before you install the drywall. Otherwise, you’ll need to cut through the drywall to access these components. This will cost you more time and money to fix down the road. For example, you might have to rewire a light fixture that’s been drilled into or screwed into drywall.
Finish
Drywall finishing includes applying a series of layers of joint compound or mud to conceal seams and imperfections. Then it’s sanded smooth to ready the surface for painting or wallpapering. Depending on the size of the room, a drywall contractor may also apply a skim coat, a thin layer that covers the whole wall.
If the drywall is for a ceiling, it is often installed in a perpendicular application to wall framing components. Then, a metal corner bead is added to protect the corners. Drywall can also be purchased in soundproof varieties, which reduce the transmission of noise between rooms or from outside.
Before starting to install drywall:
- Make sure the framing components are straight and free from rot or moisture damage.
- Verify the location of all electrical wires and add blocking between studs if necessary.
- Mark the locations of studs and joists on the ceiling or walls to help guide you when positioning drywall panels.
It’s also a good idea to check that the walls and ceiling are level.
When you start installing the drywall, position each sheet so that one end is flush with the top edge of the adjacent board and another ends at least an inch from the edges of all other boards. Secure each drywall sheet to the wall or ceiling with 1-1/4-inch screws, spaced no more than 16 inches apart. Start at the center of each panel and work toward the outer edge, making sure to drive each screw into its corresponding joist or stud.
During the drywall installation process, look for obstructions such as scuff marks or ridges, which can be difficult to remove once the mud dries. If you find any problems, fix them immediately. You don’t want a taper to spend half of his first day on the job repairing improperly set fasteners.
When sanding the compound, avoid over-sanding. This can damage the paper tape and leave visible patches. Also, be sure to feather the edges of the compound. If you don’t, the bare spot will stand out against the surrounding drywall when the wall or ceiling is painted.